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-(Classical)-  -(Islamic)-  -(Mediaeval)-

CLASSICAL SEVILLE
Seville's history is intimately linked to that of the river Guadalquivir because from its most remote past the city has been both a river port and bridge between the Atlantic Ocean and the hinterland of Andalusia, nor should we forget that Seville has always been the crossroads between the North- East and West of the Iberian Peninsula. Even as far back as the beginnings of the first milenium B.C. the area of Seville was destined to become the great market place of the Guadalquivir Valley. The original Seville was born where the river became no longer navigable for seagoing ships. Archaeological excavations undertaken in La Cuesta del Rosario confirm that the first permanent settlements date back to the 9th century.

For centuries analysts and chroniclers gave the honour of tracing Seville's limits to that most popular of mythical heroes, Hercules.He marked with 6 columns the spot where Julius Caesar would later found the city of Seville. The illustrious Roman general called the new city Iulia Romula Hispalis: Iulia after himself, Romula in honour of Rome and Hispalis, according to Saint Isidore in his Etymologies, because many of the buildings had wooden piles driven into the ground as foundations. Subsequent historical researches into the founding of Seville have to this day been unable to correct this popular belief in Seville´s mythical origins to such an extent that it is celebrated in a popular verse:

"Raised by Hercules,
Julius Caesar fortified me,
with high walls and towers,
I was conquered for the king
of heaven by Garcí Pérez de Vargas"

So great was the admiration felt by Renaissance Seville towards her mythical founders that their statues, specially sculpted by Diego Pasquera, were placed on two granite pillars with Corinthian capitals in the newly created promenade, Alameda de Hércules, where they can still be admired. Incidentally, the two columns were removed from the ruins of a Roman temple in calle Mármoles where two sister columns remain.

In 206 B.C., after defeating the Carthaginians in Ilipa Magna (Alcalá del Río), Scipio Africanus settled a contingent of veteran soldiers in Itálica just outside Seville. This Roman city is a must for anybody who wants to see for themselves how highly advanced the region surrounding the river Guadalquivir was during the Roman occupation. Itálica, birthplace of the Emperors Trajan and Hadrian, reached its apogée between the second and fourth century A.D. Among its many public buildings the Amphitheatre, with a seating capacity of 25,000, is the jewel in Itálica's crown. Also of great interest are its porticoed streets which protected the inhabitants from the elements. Itálica offers exceptional examples of domestic architecture such as De Exedra, Los Pájaros or Hylas, three houses which boast splendid mosaics. However, the majority of Italica's most important archaeological treasures are now in the city of Seville, either in the Archaeological Museum in El Parque de María Luisa Park or in La Casa de la Condesa de Lebrija mansion in calle Cuna.

Although Hispalis (Roman Seville) was being rebuilt after its being pillaged by the Carthaginians at the end of the third century B.C., the name of Hispalis only appeared for the first time in the official Roman history in 49 B.C., five years before Julius Caesar granted it the status of colony to celebrate his victory over Pompey. Such is the reality behind the myth of Caesar´s founding the city. Even today the outlay of Seville city centres streets belie their Roman origins. What was the Eastern part of Decumanus Maximus is modern-day Calle Aguilas, while the Northern section of Cardus Maximus coincides with Calle Alhondiga. This leads us to conclude that what is today La Plaza del Alfalfa, at the junction of these two streets may possibly have the Imperial Forum while ther nearby Plaza del Salvador was probably the site of the Curia and Basilica.
By the end of Imperial Rome, Hispalis was the eleventh most important city in the Roman world and was even the centre of Christian activity in the Iberian Peninsula, far above its rivals such as Mérida and Astorga. In 287 A.D.. two potter girls, Justa and Rufina achieved martyrdom for their repeated refusal to adore a graven image of the god Salambó. As joint patron saints of Seville, they have been immortalised by the painters Murillo, whose painting is in the Fine Arts Museum, and Goya, whose canvas hangs in the cathedral. In 411 A.D. Baetis, the Roman province roughly equivalent to Andalusia and Murcia, was conquered by the Silingian Vandals and in 426 Seville was taken by the Vandal king Gonderic who according to popular myth was killed by a thunderbolt after profaning the Basilica which had contained the relics of St. Vincent since the reign of Emperor Constantine I in the previous century. The Barbarian hosts left the province in 429 for Tunisia in search of new conquests and plunder, only to be replaced by the Suevi who also temporarily occupied the city.

The Visigoth occupation of Seville, which roughly coincided with the reign of Emperor Justinian (527-565 A.D.) in Constantinople, had much more far-reaching consequences than those of the Vandals and Suevi. Having originally settled in what is now Galicia, the Visigoths took control of most of Hispania. It is speculated that during this period, Seville was witness to the murder of two kings, Teudis and Teudiselus, but the event which shook the Visigoth world to its foundations was a civil war between two religious factions. Prince Hermenegild, a recent convert to Catholicism, led and uprising against his father Leovigild who, like most Visigoths, was an Arian Christian. After beseiging and taking Seville, Leovigild took his son prisoner in Córdoba. Hermenegild was banished to Valencia where he was later murdered by order of Leovigild.

The above is what factual history tells us, yet after centuries the myth persists that Hermenegild was imprisoned and murdered in a fortified tower near Puerta de Córdoba, one of Seville's city gates, in 584. Indeed a marble plaque on the tower still reminds the passer-by of the myth, the inscription of which in English would be thus: "Venerate all ye who pass this place for it was considerated by the blood of Hermenegild, King".

With the death of Leovigild, his other son Recared, converted to Catholicism in 589, brought religious and political unity to the Visigoths. Culturally, Seville basked in the intellectual light of Leander (Leandro) and Isidore (Isidoro), bothers, bishops and ultimately saints. Isidore's "Etymologies" was in its time regarded as the repositary of all the knowledge of Antiquity and Isidore himself was universally celebrated as "Pride of Spain and Doctor of wisdom applauded by all nations". In fact, one of Seville's oldest parish churches wich has recently been restored is dedicated to Isidore, while both he and Leander were subjects for several canvasses by Murillo.

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ISLAMIC SEVILLE
During its five hundred years of occupation by the Moors, Seville was of prime importance, both culturally and politically. In 712 following the siege and conquest of the city (by Musa b. Nusayr in 712) its Roman name, Hispalis, was changed to the Arabic Isbilya. During the eigth and ninth centuries people of many different Arab nations settled in Seville. One of the mos numerous contingents to settle in Seville were the Yemenis who were responsible of many uprisings and disturbances during Abs Al Rahman I's emirate (756-788), besides their continuous struggle against the Ommiad dynasty in Córdoba which had been capital of Al-Andalus since 716.

The tranquility enjoyed in Al-Andalus during the emirates of Hassim I (788-796) and Al Hakam I (796-822) was shattered following the Norman invasion of 844 during the reign of Abd-Al-Rahman II (822-852). Isbilya was saved by troops from Córdoba after one and a half years of sacking and pillaging throughout the whole region. Fifteen years before the arrival of the Normans, Ibn Adabbas had completed Isbilya's principal mosque on a site now occupied by the Baroque parish church of Divino Salvador. Visitors to this church can still admire the mosque's sahn, or orangerie and the base of its minaret. The area around the mosque with its narrow winding streets was dedicated to silk trading. Although the silk traders and their premises are long gone, the buildings which have taken their place, follow their sinous street plan as can be seen in the streets between la Plaza del Pan, la Plaza del Alfalfa and La Plaza de la Encarnación.

In the tenth century, peace and prosperity reigned once more thanks to Caliph Abd-Al Rahman III. With the fall of the Caliphate of Córdoba in 1035, Al-Andalus as a unified territory disappeared and smaller independent kingdoms arose in its place. One such kingdom was that of Seville. During the Abbadid dinasty, not only did Isbilya achieve its greatest territorial extension, from the Algarve in the West, to modern-day Murcia in the East, but it also gained supremacy over the other kingdoms, including Córdoba.

The reigns of Al-Mutadid (1042-1068) and his son Al-Mutamid (1068-1091) were high points in the history of Isbilya, above all that of Al-Mutamid, the poet king who finished his days languishing in exile in Agmat with his memories of the perfection of Isbilya and the beauty of his wife, Rumaykiya. Visiting the Alcazar, we can easily imagine his literary court gathered in one of the patios or salons of Al-Muwarak, renamed El Alcázar de la Bendición and remodelled by Pedro I of Castille in the fourteenth century.

During this period, military and tributary pressure effectively mortgaged Seville to the kingdom of Castilla y León (Castile).In an attempt to check the expansionist policy of Alfonso VI of Castile, the Moorish kings of Badajoz, Granada and Seville agreed to ask for outside help, in the shape of the Almoravid Berbers from the North of Africa. Finally the Almoravid scimitar turned against its masters and the kingdom of Seville fell to them Almoravids in 1091.

Subsequent to 1091, Seville became indispensible to its new masters as a bridgehead and base for troops arriving from the Maghreb. Excavations have recently confirmed that the last walls to be built around Seville were constructed by the Almoravids. The longest section of wall extant is between the arch of the Basilica of La Macarena and la Puerta de Córdoba, guarded by eight towers. The social and religious intolerance of the Almoravids soon became a source of discontent among the populace, who began to organise themselves against their conquerors. This, coupled with the threat posed by the Castilian king, Alfonso VII, paved the way for the arrival of the Almohads in Cádiz in 1145.

During this period, Seville was made administrative capital of Al-Andalus by the Almohads. The Almohads also restored to the region a period of prosperity and relative peace, although the peace was frequently disturbed by the incursions of the Castilians or by the Guadalquivir bursting its banks.

These distractions did not however discourage the Almohads from an ambitious building programme, including the construction of La Buhaira palace outside the city walls and of a pontoon bridge across the Guadalquivir linking the hamlet of Triana to the city.

The most ambitious project started in 1172 when work began on a new central mosque, a site now occupied by the imposing pile of the cathedral. Although the mosque is no more, an idea of its grandeur can be had from the contemplation of its spacious orangerie and the body of its minaret with decorative brickwork. When built this tower was topped with four golden spheres of decreasing size. Since 1568 however, the tower has been crowned by an airy belfry with a bronze weather vane, El Giraldillo, which by extension, has lent its name to the tower La Giralda, one of the most famous belltowers of Christendom.

From 1220 onwards, Almohad power was in irreversible decline. Repairs to the city walls and the construction of La Torre del Oro (The Golden Tower) did not impede the triumphant entry of Fernando III into the city on December 22nd, 1248 after a 15-month siege of the city and its final capitulation on November 23rd, 1248.

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MEDIAEVAL SEVILLE
After the reconquest of Seville, the city became capital of a large kingdom with a stable civil and ecclesiastical administration. Fernando III stayed in the city until his death in 1252 and was buried in the royal Chapel at the feet of Our Lady of Kings which he venerated with such fervour in life. His incorrupt remains are now in the splendid silver casket made by silversmith Laureano de Pina to celebrate Fernando's canonisation in 1671. The epitaph, written in Spanish, Latin, Arabic and Hebrew testifies the veneration that the Sevillians felt for their king and saint, and affirms that Fernando was "...the most loyal, truthful, the frankest, most hardworking, most handsome, most mature and distinguished, most persistent and humble who most feared God, who served him most faithfully, who confounded and destroyed his enemies and who raised and honoured all those who were loyal, who conquered Seville, capital of Spain...".

Fernando's son and successor, Alfonso X the Wise, always had a certain affection for Seville which the inhabitants returned manyfold, especially in the final years of his reign. The NO8DO symbol on the city's coat of arms is an heraldic pun in Spanish, with the 8 representing a skein (madeja) of wool. Thus the device reads: NOmadejaDO, more or less Spanish for "you've never abandoned me" (no me ha dejado). Seville's heraldic device par excellence is therefore testimony of Alfonso X´s great esteem of his Sevillian subjects' loyalty. Alfonso X was also author of the poems of "Las cantigas de Santa María" and "Las Siete Partidas" besides commissioning the construction of a Gothic church in Triana dedicated to Santa Ana, mother of the Virgin Mary who he believed had interceded to cure him of an ocular problem.

One of the most notorious figures of Seville's mediaeval history and legend is King Pedro I called by some "The Avenger" and by others "The cruel". Even though he never loved his wife, Doña Blanca de Borbón, Pedro ordered the murder of Prince Don Fadrique, Grand master of the Order of Santiago for committing adultery with her. It is assumed that the deed was carried out in La Sala de Justicia (Law Court) in the Reales Alcázares.

This walled palace originally built by the Abbadids is the oldest palace of the Castilian kings and it reflects Pedro I's personality. Pedro built new additions and remodelled other parts with exhuberant Mudejar décor; an inscription on the main door of the Patio de Montería declares that "THE HIGHEST, NOBLEST, MOST POWERFUL ALL-CONQUERING KING, PEDRO I, KING, BY GRACE OF GOD, OF CASTILE AND LEÓN ORDERED THESE GARDENS, PALACES AND GATES TO BE BUILT, WHICH WERE DONE IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD FOURTEEN HUNDRED AND TWO" (1364). The esteem in which the Sevillians held Pedro is exemplified by their naming some rainwater tanks in the Patio del Crucero Baños de doña María de Padilla (Doña María de Padilla's baths).

Pedro I's unrequited and unwelcome passion for Doña María Fernández Coronel, an illustrious noblewoman is well known to Sevillian popular history. After the imprisonment and death of her husband, Don Juan de la Cerda, by order of Pedro I, Doña María suffered variously at the hand of the Monarch, sufferings which popular myth have enriched and embellished to her greater virtue. Finally to rid herself definitively of Pedro's unwanted advances, Doña María deliberately threw boiling oil over her face, producing a horrible disfigurement. These events happened in the kitchens in the convent of Santa Clara. In 1374, under the reign of king Henry II of Trastamara, the Convent of Santa Inés was founded and the mummified body of Doña María dressed in the habits of a Franciscan lies in its choir. Indeed, every December 2nd it is exposed to the respectful veneration of the faithful.

The legend of "La Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro" (The Head of King Pedro) has been treated many times by poets and novelists alike and nowadays it gives name to a street in the Alfalfa quarter of the city. In this street there is a niche with sculptor Marcos Cabrera's bust of Pedro, sculpted in 1599 which replaced a cruder terracotta head. Popular belief has it that the terracotta head representing the king was placed there by Pedro I himself. Legend says that an old woman caught Pedro commiting a heinous deed at the spot below where the niche is. To calm the popular tumult, the king promised that the culprit's head would be placed at the site of the crime, and so it was, albeit a model in clay!.

The great earthquake of 1356 happened during Pedro's reign. This event had a great architectural effect upon the city of Seville, since it gave rise to the reconstruction of parish churches such as those of San Miguel, Omnium Sanctorum, Santa Marina and San Román.

The years following Seville's reconquest saw a great influx of Jewish immigrants who made the city their home and their colony grew to be the second largest in Spain after that of Toledo. In 1391 the Jewish community was the object of a violent attack resulting in numerous deaths and pillage as the direct result of Ferrán Martínez, Archdeacon of Ecija´s inflammatory preachings. What was Seville's Jewish Quarter, formerly enclosed by a pallisade, are today the Barrio de Santa Cruz Quarter and that of San Bartolomé.

In 1401 Seville's Chapter House reached a decision of far-reaching consequences for the religious history of Seville: nothing less than the construction of a new Cathedral which,as one of the prebendaries declared, would be so large that "when finished, those who see it will take us for madmen". To a great extent he saw his wish fulfilled since the Cathedral of Santa María de la Sede is the largest Gothic church in the world and in area ranks third in all Christendom after Saint Peter´s of Rome and Saint Paul´s in London. Such a huge undertaking attracted innumerable first class artists, bricklayers, stonemasons, carpenters, painters, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, sculptors, woodcarvers, glaziers, embroiderers, ceramicists, etc. Consecrated in 1507, the Cathedral, with its many additions in Renaissance or Mannerist styles is a huge multifunctional building. Besides being a Holy Temple, its is a first-class museum, immense Pantheon and a repository of libraries and archives of inestimable value. Since the sixteenth century, the Seises, a group of boy dancers, perform their evolutions three times a year in front of the Holy Sacrament of the Main Chapel at Shrovetide, on Corpus Christi and on the day of the Inmmaculate Conception.

The fifteenth century was a time of great political tensions, nor was Seville an exception, with the continuous struggle between the noble houses of Guzmán and Ponce de León as they tried to gain control of the local government.

Also during this period, Seville was the Court in all but name of the Catholic Kings between July 1477 and December 1478. Three years later, the city became the first seat of the Holy Office, better known as the Inquisition. The war against the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada which was the most important war waged in Spain during that century, enjoyed the military and economic support of the Sevillian population who thus contributed to the final unification of Spain in the remarkable year of 1492.

More history about Sevilla...


 
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